When it comes to caring for our skin, we're on an endless quest to crack the code. That is, we stalk everyone with great skin for secrets and press experts to set the record straight about skin myths. And we're maniacal about perfecting our own personal routines.
We've already waxed poetic about the need to use a variety of brands instead of one pre-packaged line — to quote Elizabeth Tanzi, MD, "Buying a one-brand, multi-step system is for the lazy person” — but today, we bring you an idea that's even more foreign.
It turns out, there are benefits that come with shopping in other skin sections. That means someone with dry skin can buy from the acne section and those with oily complexions can shop the dry aisle. If you think about it, it makes sense. After all, most product labeling is pure marketing. It's like browsing the men's section for a trend not done quite right in women's.
For guidance on the subject, we tapped L.A. aesthetician Kerry Benjamin, an expert in all things DIY who formulates her own products. Ahead, all the tips and tricks you need to start thinking outside the box section.
Acne-Prone Skin
Shop For: Products with lactic acid
Often Found In: The sensitive and mature sections
Lactic acid is kind of like the unsung hero of the acid world. It's incredibly gentle, but exfoliates like a champ, which often means it's lumped into the mature skin section or even placed in products for sensitive or dry skin.
"Typically known for its exfoliating, hydrating, and brightening properties, this alpha hydroxy acid is also perfect for oily and acne skin," Benjamin says. Other acne products tend to scour out clogged pores with heavy duty doses of exfoliants, like benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid, which can be overly drying. This acid is effective, but non-irritating.
Illustrated by Paola Delucca.
Dry Skin
Shop For: Cleansers with AHAs or BHAs
Often Found In: The acne or anti-aging sections
Those with dry skin may feel inspired to shop for richer creams and oils to help ease the issue, but dehydration is often best helped by exfoliation, not piling on the product. Plus, too-rich formulas can lead to congestion. That said, overly powerful acids aren't going to help, either.
Instead, try a face wash with AHAs or BHAs as a daily exfoliatant. "A BHA cleanser formulated with a humectant and calming ingredients will gently exfoliate while also killing bacteria and minimizing inflammation," says Benjamin, who uses this very technique to treat her eczema. "I use a BHA face cleanser on my legs all the time — it has calming ingredients, like chamomile, to soothe my itchiness and kill the bacteria without drying my skin." Other effective humectants to look for are hyaluronic acid, aloe, and honey.
Illustrated by Paola Delucca.
Normal Skin
Shop For: Exfoliating products, like acid-packed scrubs and peels
Often Found In: The oily and aging sections
"In my experience, most people with normal skin don't do much, because they don’t think about their skin," Benjamin says. "But that means they get a lot of dead skin buildup, making the skin a little dull."
Benjamin's Rx? Chemical exfoliants (multi- or single-acid offerings) formulated for oily or aging skin. Look for buzzwords on the package like aging, dullness, dryness, fine lines, congestion, and blackheads, she says. "You'll notice a significant difference in your skin and reap the benefits in years to come when you still have a youthful glow," Benjamin says.
Illustrated by Paola Delucca.
Oily Skin
Shop For: Jojoba oil and products with hyaluronic acid
Often Found In: The dry section
Anyone with an oily complexion likely knows this fun fact: Drying out the skin only makes the problem worse. But products with lightweight moisturizers like jojoba oil and hyaluronic acid can provide balance.
"Hyaluronic acid is a hydrating humectant that's great for controlling oil production," Benjamin says. "Oily skin needs proper moisture otherwise it overcompensates and compounds the problem."
As she sees it, jojoba oil "is an excellent choice for oily skin as its non-comedogenic," she says. "Use it to remove makeup before cleansing and also to moisturize at night without causing breakouts."
Illustrated by Paola Delucca.
Combination Skin
Shop For: Masks with hyaluronic acid; masks or peel with light acids
Often Found In: Dry section; oily section
Ideally, those with combination skin should shop the entire aisle for each part of their face and then apply products accordingly. Riiight. Obviously, this isn't realistic, but you can paint by numbers when masking — but there's a trick.
For the areas that are oily (like your T-zone), Benjamin suggests adding moisture with a hyaluronic acid-packed product. Then, opt for a single or multi-acid peel or mask for the areas that are dry, like your cheeks and jawline.
Pro tip: Cut a sheet mask and spot treat the areas that need balance; just be sure your hands are clean if you plan on saving the rest of the sheet for later.
Illustrated by Paola Delucca.
Sensitive Or Reactive Skin
Shop For: Products with low-level salicylic acid
Often Found In: The normal or acne-prone skin section
At this point, you're probably aware that you might not actually have sensitive skin. But if you do, or if your skin is highly reactive to new products, be sure you go slow and introduce new products one at a time to avoid a reaction. The first step? Shop the normal and acne-prone sections for a hit of gentle salicylic acid — levels range from .05% to 2%, so stick to the lower end of that spectrum — in a cleanser or treatment.
"Salicylic acid exfoliates, kills bacteria, and calms inflammation — all very necessary for treating inflamed skin," Benjamin explains. "What’s important with sensitive skin and SA is to find a formulation with other hydrators." She likes products with a hit of lactic acid, seaweed, or hyaluronic acid, all of which add a boost of moisture.
Illustrated by Paola Delucca.
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